This is never more apparent than when travelling the length of the country by bus, train or motorbike. I’ve written at length about some of the changes I notice when travelling south to north by motorbike, but, on a recent road trip between Saigon and Hanoi, I made a record of some of the meals I ate along the way, to try and illustrate the variety of food available, and what a delight it is to eat your way from one end of the country to the other.

Below I’ve illustrated 11 dishes in geographical order as I ate them from south to north. I’ve written a brief description of each one, including the addresses, and marked every meal on my map. During my trip, I made no attempt to eat dishes I thought represented each region, nor did I research the places I ate at: when I was hungry, I simply looked around for a place to eat (not a difficult thing to do in Vietnam). Even so, the dishes on this page do reflect some of the culinary changes from south to north and showcase the variety and richness of the cuisine. I have not made a record of the prices for each meal, but all of the dishes below were not more than a couple of dollars each.

It’s been a while since I wanted to do a list of our favorite Vietnamese restaurant. What comes into mind when you hear the word “Vietnam”? Beautiful Halong Bay. Crazy motorcycle. Rich history. Here are two that also make the list: savory pho and crunchy banh mi. Vietnamese culinary delights have blown me away on my visit last year and we see it’s becoming more imprinted into people’s mind all around the world, including Jakarta, thanks to Obama & Bourdain. Lucky for us, there’a steady rise of number of good Vietnamese restaurants in the capital. Not only they give us pho and banh mi, they also introduce us to other types of Vietnamese food.

1. Nam Nam Noodle Bar

Hearing the inspiring story of Chef Nam as a war refugee will indeed give you a fuzzy feeling, but Nam Nam Noodle Bar is more than just that. This Vietnamese food chain restaurant from Singapore has dazzled us with its 24-hour cooked broth, no-MSG pho bowls. With that and its refreshing Sugar Cane Juice, Nam Nam Noodle Bar remains as our go-to Vietnamese restaurant. Tried and tested numerous times. Read our review here.

2. Bo & Bun PIK

Meet the new kid on the PIK block, Bo & Bun from Bali. Definitely the best-looking out of the bunch, a nice place for family gatherings. You might want to share the appetizers, but order a bowl of pho for yourself. Interesting choice of beverages: classic Vietnamese ingredients like ginger and lime, with a modern twist. Read our review here.

3. Saigon Delight

Spanning four outlets in just a little over a year, Saigon Delight is quickly taking over Jakarta with its friendly, speedy staffs and simple Vietnamese dishes. You might want to avoid lunch or dinner time, because the place is packed. Read our review here.

4. Cali Deli

When talking about Vietnamese restaurant Jakarta, Cali Deli is one of the pioneers when it comes to introducing banh mi to Jakarta’s culinary scene. Endless options of toppings from chicken to turkey, with a toasty Vietnamese baguette. Watch out for your jaws, because their banh mi has certainly got the height right.